Blackhorse Road/ Higham’s Hill
If you’re a craft beer fan you’ll know the maze of warehouses to the north of Blackhorse Road station, which at the turn of the 20th century transformed the area from emerging suburb to industrial quarter. Now known as Blackhorse Beer Mile, its fast-growing cluster of breweries and associated taprooms have become a key London attraction for both locals and tourists. Equine the area is not, however: the station name is actually a corruption of ‘Black House’, a mansion that stood at the southern end of the road. Despite this, don’t miss Glaswegian sculptor David McFall’s mural of a black horse outside the station’s entrance.
It’s here where we’ll start, at the busy crossroads, whose landmark mural opposite, on the corner of Forest Road, was created in 2014 by artists Jon Blake and God’s Own Junkyard founder Chris Bracey, depicting pipes, shaving brushes and leather goods manufactured at Dunhill’s local factory. A couple of hundred metres east on Forest Road are popular hangouts Forest Wines, with its vast corner mural, and opposite, the bright-yellow Jaunty Coffee, which cheerfully announces itself as the last stop on this stretch of road. Also on this short parade are homewares and gift shop Yeet and bicycle store Mamachari.
Back at the junction, refuel (or co-work) at buzzy hangout Narrative (tip: the packed brunch bagels) or adjoining Deja Brew, while just over the road is modern gastropub and pizzeria The Black Horse. Need some green space? A short walk west is the 211-hectare Walthamstow Wetlands nature reserve for fans of wide open skies and views of the city, with its thirteen miles of paths, ten reservoirs and eight islands. Nothing short of a “London Lake District” – as people have dubbed it – there’s even a lovely café set within the visitors centre.
Back on the grittier lower reaches of Blackhorse Lane, which runs adjacent to the industrial estate, there’s a wealth of outlets including legendary sonic repair shop and café Armstrong Audio and some of east London’s best coffee at Hermanos in Gnome House, a creative space housing art, photography and design studios. Nestled midway up is Krypton, the quirky home of American comics: in one form or another this hidden gem has been selling comics for over 35 years so it’s no surprise that the shop is filled to the brim. Nearby is the must-visit German Deli (follow the signs from the main road), while more active locals flock to Yonder, which combines climbing, yoga, a workspace, café and an events space all under one roof. This is a place you can come to boulder your way to a brain wave.
Now snake your way round the industrial estate for a bar crawl – and you’ll discover some of the capital’s finest taprooms at Signature Brewery, Pretty Decent, Big Penny (don’t miss its cathedral-like interior) and, our favourite, Exale, tucked away at its northern end. A little further north still are a trio more spots: Hackney Brewery, which also hosts vintage clothing pop-ups, Walthamstow’s classic Wildcard and the unique Renegade Urban Winery, whose airy main mezzanine bar overlooks the Wetlands.
Walk back down south for a few minutes and you’ll reach Sutherland Path, home to enterprising Blackhorse Workshop, a public space dedicated to making and mending, with a range of courses: if you’ve ever fancied yourself as a woodturner or leatherworker this is the place for you. Also in this corner is Burnt Faith, the UK’s first dedicated brandy house and distillery, while at its heart is friendly Blackhorse Workshop Café, whose bright, sun-filled unit and tented outdoor seating is as much the place for Turkish-style brunch as excellent coffee; there are also salsa classes, Knit Nights and even family discos. And if you need a special meal, a moment away is the area’s acclaimed small plates restaurant Slowburn, nestled within the iconic Blackhorse Lane Ateliers.
Chingford North
Moments from stunning – and lofty – Chingford Plain, an overground station opened in 1873 and swifty became a gateway for Victorian day-trippers to Epping Forest. Follow in their footsteps to gawp at the 1543-built historic Queen Elizabeth’s Hunting Lodge, which the royal family used while hunting deer in the forest during the 1600s, and the adjoining Butler’s Retreat, a 19th century Grade II-listed building: originally serving non-alcoholic refreshments as part of the Temperance movement, it’s now artisan café The Larder, whose other outlet is in Wanstead. It’s a great spot for a cuppa.
Down back along Station Road are a plethora of eating and drinking options, including several Italian trattorias, such as locally acclaimed Sicilian Ibleo, and Tuscan specialists Cugini, overlooking the ancient churchyard. The wide, leafy promenade is peppered by cafes: top choices for a caffeine hit are Green 17 Bistro, by the scenic green, Dada Coffee House, where you can linger on the pavement terrace, and Brick Lane bagels: ours is a smoked salmon and cream cheese.
World food dining options abound too, from sushi and teppanyaki at Japanese grill Hokkaido to para picar and sharing boards at Las Tapas, as well as Thai classics at Pat Pong and popular pub the Rusty Bike. For award-winning five-star fish and chips try Wilsons, still going strong after nearly a century, while for traditional East End jellied eels or pie and mash it has to be Robin’s, a family-owned business producing traditional fare (as well as their famous parsley liquor) for five generations.
A secret highlight? Why, it has to be The Village Arcade, past independent bookstore Jo’s: you enter down a narrow alleyway, and it’s like stepping back in time, its characterful specialist stores including vintage denim, a cake shop, hairdressers, dog grooming and even a vegan café.
Need a pint? Stroll past the green, surrounded by cottages with white picket fences, and the leafy churchyard, to the far end of Station Road: here you’ll find the King’s Head Hotel, just before the hill’s steep incline, dating back to the 1730s. Meanwhile, fans of Gothic architecture should walk in the opposite direction to gawp at the former The Bull and Crown, a magnificent and currently unoccupied Grade II-listed late Victorian pub, complete with pillared facade, most recently a branch of the Prezzo restaurant chain.
Need a pint? Stroll past the green, surrounded by cottages with white picket fences, and the leafy churchyard, to the far end of Station Road..
Highams Park
Nestling between Walthamstow and Chingford, the whole of the Highams Park area was once known as Hale End, as evidenced by the name Hale End Library, and the former Halex factory, which once stood on the site now occupied by Tesco. But this pleasant corner of E4 is perhaps most famous for its titular green space and its vast lake, about half a kilometre long, on the tip of Epping Forest itself.
It’s unique in the area as the railway line cuts through the main centre with a level crossing, while the Greenwich Meridian line passes close by: there’s even a plaque marking this at 501 Hale End Road. Stop for a moment and gaze at the clock tower, commissioned by Waltham Forest to mark the millennium.
Need to refresh? There’s a raft of coffee shops to choose from, including corner cafe Karya Bistro, which sells Leyton’s renowned Perky Blenders beans, as well as Indulge and Corner Cafe, both near the station, while in the pedestrianised precinct Ziggy’s Gift Shop is as good for an espresso as it is for a scented candle.
Meanwhile, on Hale End Road, opposite local pub The County Arms and chic homewares store Grace & Albert, Biba & Wren pairs a solid wine list with a next-level brunch menu, with everything from tofu poke to halloumi pita satay. Other Turkish restaurants are Yaz and Breeze, with its olive tree-strewn roadside terrace.
An essential deli to stock up at is the Community Larder (go there for Hackney Gelato), while Coffee Treasure, despite its caffeine-centric name, is actually the place to go for home-made Eastern European treats like pierogi, cabbage rolls and hachapuri (cheese bread). Thirsty? Micropub the Stag & Lantern is directly opposite contemporary beer-tap and wine tasting room Vinoramica, whose owner Matt has travelled and tasted his way around the world to bring unique wines from small independent producers.
And the big news? Well, the cinema is returning soon: the iconic old art deco picturehouse The Regal, which first opened back in 1911 and closed in 1971, is currently being refurbed, including the restoration of its historical façade. It’s due to start showing films on two screens soon for the first time in over 50 years, with a seating capacity of 550 and a café-bar on ground-floor level.
