Black Horse Lane
How did Walthamstow look centuries ago? For the simple answer, head to the Village, which uniquely showcases its historic buildings – along with a healthy dose of East London vibes. At its heart is the leafy wilderness encompassing St. Mary’s Church, founded way back in the 12th century, while directly opposite is the timber-framed Ancient House, London’s oldest home, built in 1435. And that’s not all: near the 18th century former almshouses is the Vestry House Museum, currently undergoing a massive renovation and due to reopen in 2026.
Now snake round Orford Road until you reach the Village’s short pedestrianised high street, where you can soak up the delights of current-day E17: grab a coffee at Amsterdam-style cafe Bern’s & The Beans (or a negroni, for that matter) before a mooch at colourful florist Petals In Bloom, antiques emporium Finamore Mark, art gallery Here On Earth, and W clothing store, housed in an eye-catching former ironmonger’s. Yoga fans should also check out the multi-practise Muay Thai studio just off Orford.
If you’re peckish, lunch or dinner options abound here, from healthy poké bowls at Peel’d and hearty brunches at the Village Kitchen to superior cod at Orford’s Fish & Chips or Spanish small plates in the heated garden at longstanding Orford Road Tapas. One destination, however, is unmissable: Eat17 broke the mould when they opened their famed neighbourhood grocery and bistro over a decade ago, and everyone should try their famous Bacon Jam.
Now, how about a tipple? The Queen’s Arms is the street’s enviable corner boozer, serving East London beers alongside gastropub classics like fishermen’s pie or bavette (the rear courtyard garden is an oasis, too). Other great pubs nearby are The Village, The Castle, and old stalwart, the Nag’s Head, where you’ll often find free live jazz on Sundays. If you’re an oenophile, Hometipple is no ordinary wine shop, with informal bar area where you can people-watch at the window counter. And if it’s cocktails you’re after – perhaps alongside a sharing platter – sink into Bargo, a Shoreditch-style bar opposite.
To dial up the party vibes, hit Ravenswood Industrial estate, a perfect example of East London juxtaposition – so near Orford Road but its atmosphere completely different. Its inception came about after late world-famous neon artist Chris Bracey moved his studio and collection of salvaged signs, vintage neons, old movie props and retro displays here; there’s a bar and café too. Since then, three super-popular breweries (Wildcard, The Real Al and Pillars) have opened, as well as gin palace Mother’s Ruin and events space The Blitz Factory. Need some carbs? On the outskirts of the industrial estate is famed Italian joint Arte E Pasta, its vast muralled exterior worth a visit alone.
Finally, just south of Orford Road, Grove Road has a couple of great spots: Japanese Kitchen Ohba Leaf is a cosy nook you can sit at the counter and watch the precision of the chefs, while Hucks is a neighbourhood coffee bar next to Blackduke Vintage, where you’ll find mid-century modern furniture stacked to the ceiling (literally). If you’re new to the area and looking for that perfect Ercol table or Danish sideboard to complete your room, this is the place.
Bell Corner + Lloyd Park
There’s only one place to start in this E17 enclave and it’s the bold splendour of William Morris House, Walthamstow’s most elegant Georgian pile. Built in the 1740s, the Grade II-listed building is the UK’s only public gallery devoted to the pioneering designer, craftsman, conservationist and socialist, whose designs are still more than current over 150 years later. The perfectly-sized gallery, once the Morris family home, now consists of ten small rooms, which tell the story of his ascendance in interior design and why he became increasingly interested in socialism. Opened back in 1950, the gallery was overhauled in 2012 with an extension built on the site of the old east wing: this now houses an off-shoot of Leyton’s legendary Scottish-owned café Deeney’s, as well as a special exhibition space.
Once you’ve gorged on all things Morrisian, if it’s a Saturday morning the huge farmers’ market will be in full swing, while the surrounding green spaces of Lloyd Park, complete with lakes and laws, has been a favourite place for Walthamstow residents since it was opened in 1900; it’s the living, breathing heart of the town, a popular and attractive space for visitors of all ages to relax and play.
Further east up Forest Road is another architectural gem: the Town Hall, whose distinctive art deco-influenced design took four years to complete as part of the celebrations for the Festival of Britain in 1951. Meanwhile, adjoining public space Fellowship Square was unveiled more recently, in the height of Covid: bigger than Trafalgar Square, its centrepiece is a water feature with 144 individual jets that can be illuminated with multi-coloured lights and programmed to move with music. It’s named is inspired by the Morris quote that graces the front of the Assembly Hall: ‘Fellowship is life, and the lack of fellowship is death.’
This corner of E17 is, of course, yet another food hotspot. At the junction with Chingford Road, Bühler & Co is an Antipodean-style café whose imaginative dishes are inspired by cuisine from around the world (tip: their veggie fry up). On the same stretch is Wynwood Art District, possibly the best place for coffee in this competitive corner of the postcode. There’s also a tattoo parlour, wholefoods and plant store, therapy rooms and, around the corner, the famous Rocket barbers.
Landmark pub The Bell, presiding over this ancient crossroads, defines this area long known as Bell Corner. But you may not be aware of its historic rivalry with nearby Hoe Street pub Ye Olde Rose and Crown: way back in 1890, it actually tried to stop its rival from opening. Luckily, both thrived – as did another revived watering hole, ten minutes’ walk north on Chingford Road, the Dog & Duck, a family-friendly pub serving cracking roasts and sourdough pizzas.
Lea Bridge/ Bakers Arms
This is arguably the most up-and-coming quarter in both Leyton and Walthamstow located, as it is, at the busy junction that acts as a divider between the two areas. The Bakers Arms takes its name from a former pub (now a betting shop) named after the Victorian almshouses further south in Lea Bridge Road: these fifty-odd homes, built in Italianate style, originally serviced “any respectable member of the baking trade fallen into poverty, or to the widow of such.”
Food for thought as you uncover this area’s gems. Hornbeam Café on Hoe Street serves vegan and vegetarian locally grown, organic produce in its inventive dishes (they also host pop-up evening dinners.) Wine-lovers should visit nearby Gnarly Vines with its twinkling and surprisingly leafy rear garden. And one of the area’s best Indian restaurants near the junction is Shish Mahal, which is also BYO (try their £9.95 two-course lunch for a tasty bargain).
Lea Bridge Road itself is home to some rated coffee: a particular favourite is Bromley’s, an artisan café near Baker’s Arms itself. Others on the long thoroughfare include homely Italian store Pinch La Deli, Kophi, down near Lea Bridge station itself and Blend + Roast in Lea Bridge Library’s RIBA-award-winning pavilion. This is one of the area’s architectural masterpieces: designed by Studio Weave in 2022, the long, narrow extension to the Victorian library overlooks the garden and is so peaceful it feels a world apart from the hectic main road alongside it.
The big new pub opening on Lea Bridge Road is set to be The European, the former Spark House pub (previously a Wetherspoon) currently being restored to its original late Victorian glory. Other drinking haunts nearby include the revamped Prince Of Wales pub and popular William The Fourth, while further west, at the junction of Lea Bridge and Church Road, is the cavernous Blondies Brewery, housed in a vast former furniture factory. A little further still is Leyton’s oldest pub, Hare & Hounds, given a new lease of life by the team that brought us Walthamstow institutions Dog and Duck and The Duke.
Who doesn’t love a pony? Whether you’re a complete beginner, returning to the sport after a break or looking for advanced tuition, Lee Valley Riding Centre boasts both group and private lessons the programme of activities includes birthday parties, pony days and evening courses.
Finally, there’s one last secret in this fascinating area. Argall Avenue industrial estate is an urban oasis of diverse destinations, from high-ceilinged artisan bakery and café Pavilion (sister to the Victoria Park lakeside original) to hip local breweries Neckstamper and Queer Brewing, as well as family-run Vietnamese street food hotspot Hanoi Ca Phe. There’s even a beautiful pottery studio, Turning Earth, which holds regular classes.
Wood Street & Upper Walthamstow
Wood Street is arguably the location for small independent businesses in E17, from boutiques to eclectic places to eat and drink. It’s also home to the finest murals and street art in the area, thanks to local collective Wood Street Walls: don’t forget to look up as you wander.
An example of the street’s creative spirit is Make Do and Wonder, a space for pre-loved sustainable fashion, with an emphasis on local makers and small UK brands. Nearby, Images In Frames hosts rotating contemporary art exhibitions in their spacious gallery, and they have on-site custom framing with an extensive range of moulding and conservation options. Up on the corner of Forest Road, Yallop’s is an authentic family run barbers opened by local resident Danny Yallop, an international male groomer with two decades in the industry.
There are several must-see attractions here too. Start at the warren-like Wood Street Indoor Market, with its bottle-red façade, originally built and run as The Crown Cinema, but now with a mighty reputation as one of London’s secret gems. Home to thirty wee shops, selling everything from vinyl and cushions to books, vintage clothes and furniture, each is run by local owners with a passion (plant-based foodies should tuck into The Coven deli, too).
Hidden within the market is the discreetly signed Georgian Village: dating back to the 18th century, it’s reached by a slim passageway off the main street. Here there are around ten vendors, from coffee and cosmetics to afternoon tea: look out for Pixie’s, a micro 80s-themed cocktail bar which hosts E17’s most friendly drag nights, and, next door, the homely Luke’s Cider taproom.
Speaking of a libation or three, the street boasts some characterful watering holes. The Duke was spruced up a few years back, with damn good burgers and tacos, a slew of tempting midweek offers and a legendary pub quiz on Wednesdays. And the Flowerpot is an East End institution, with live music (not to mention the odd raucous singalong) at weekends. Directly opposite is sexy newish arrival Wood Street Bear, which hosts regular DJ nights, while East London legends Clapton Craft operate a sizeable taproom with window counter to pontificate with a craft beer.
Beyond Wood Street Overground station itself is impressive plant and garden store Lancaster’s, and nearby, the tucked-away Lacy Nook, whose balmy garden space specialises in creative cuisine from the Balkan Peninsula (tip: chorizo hash with poached egg). And for caffeine afficionados, Rebel Coffee, Karya Bistro, the top-quality Dudley’s and Coffee Boxx are some of the many unbeatable pit stops along the stretch for brunch and artisanal coffee (the sweet-toothed should make a beeline for mouthwatering Chocolatine Bakery). And as for Wood Street Bakery? Well, that’s a must for sourdough.
Standing proud in this jumble of old and new is another architectural gem, timber-framed Second Nature, a wholefood and health food shop with weatherboard exterior and white picket fence – and one of the oldest buildings in Walthamstow. The Grade-II listed picturesque building, a former butcher’s, dates back to 1750, a one-of-a-kind stop for all your day-to-day veggies.
Finally, Wood Street majors in a mind-boggling array of international cuisine, from top-rated shish at Teras and authentic, well-cooked Lebanese and Palestinian dishes at Mini Hiba to South African BBQ joint Jungle Braai and rated Indian restaurant Forest Tandoori. Just fancy pizza? Try authentic Italian Marilucia, serving up the best Sardinian food in a warm and homely setting.
Walthamstow Central
A little-known fact is that Walthamstow Central station was originally called Hoe Street, a 17th century word simply meaning ‘ridge’. In fact, legend has it that when the station first opened in 1872, passengers would sprint across the fields to catch their train. And it wasn’t renamed Walthamstow Central until the Victoria line arrived in 1968.
Leave the station behind and walk over to the Central Parade, completed in 1964. Now a thriving creative hub, signified by its striking yellow-waved façade, it’s home to Today, arguably the best – and most famous – bakery in Walthamstow. Their sourdough bread is freshly made every morning on-site so if you pop by early you can pick up a warm loaf. The coffee is pretty darn good too, and it’s a popular co-working spot. Other units on this parade include Artsnug for limited edition prints, Glow womenswear, Albert’s professional dog grooming and florist Every Space Plants.
Meanwhile, more quality coffee can be found at Le Délice, an Italian bakery matching artisan products with Sardinian family recipes, as well as – on Hoe Street’s southern end – hip new bakery Suba. Besides several Turkish restaurants, intriguing eateries include Etles, which serves excellent Uryghur cuisine (try the signature leghmen) and Frey, an Eritrean and Ethiopian, as popular with plant-based diners as Shri Lakshmi’s vegetarian Indian BYOB café.
But the big cultural news here is the arrival of Soho Theatre Walthamstow, the official title of the 1000-seat venue on Hoe Street, previously the EMD and Granada cinemas: it is scheduled to finally reopen in 2025 after a £30m redevelopment and set to become the cultural heart of the whole postcode.
Equally significant, however, is domed Victorian gin palace Ye Olde Rose and Crown on the opposite side: a real community pub, no gimmicks or frills, it’s also the place for music, top-flight comedy or innovative theatre. There are also spoken word and alternative shows at the nearby Walthamstow Trades Hall, which first opened over a hundred years ago. Craft beer fan? Try Signature Brewery’s taproom The Collab, a small branch of Clapton Craft on Hoe Street’s northern end, or the bar run by local brewery Pretty Decent at the Crate streetfood hall in the mezzanine of 17 & Central shopping centre.
Down cobbled Hatherley Mews – don’t miss its super-colourful murals – is yoga studio East of Eden, and former warehouse-turned-pizzeria Sodo, whose delicious sourdough bases, and candlelit interior, mean it’s often rammed (also good is Yard Sale, in a former stained glass workshop). A short walk away is Cove17, a lifestyle store and concept barbershop offering haircuts, shaves and beard trims, while Lot One Ten has occupied its spot for a couple of decades: head there for antiques, or to spearmint-fronted EBTD for 20th century furniture design. Meanwhile, E17 Art House are expert framers who started out in Notting Hill, showcasing local artists’ work alongside paintings by established names, and Public Knowledge is a haven of books, magazines and poetry.
As for Walthamstow High Street itself? Well, it’s home to the second longest outdoor market in Europe (the longest one is in Rome, which is 2 km long). Starting back in 1885, it spans a kilometre and as well as stalls selling fruit and veg, clothes and household goods, you’ll find everything from Caribbean curried goat to pie and mash. There’s a busy Sunday Farmer’s market and weekend streetfood stalls aplenty, too.
And the big news? Well, the cinema is returning soon: the iconic old art deco picturehouse The Regal, which first opened back in 1911 and closed in 1971, is currently being refurbed, including the restoration of its historical façade. It's due to start showing films on two screens soon for the first time in over 50 years, with a seating capacity of 550 and a café-bar on ground-floor level.
Walthamstow Wood Street
St James Street & Coppermill Lane
St James Street has a different feel to the rest of Walthamstow, with its scrubbed-up nineteenth and early twentieth century architecture and relaxed city vibe. The first thing you’ll see upon leaving the Overground station is Crate St James, a container park home to around thirty independent businesses, including hair salons, florists, a vinyl store and cycle store. Grab a pint at the Untraditional Pub, which serves beer from local brewery Pillars, or streetfood from Baggio Burger or Green Choy. The top terrace has sunset views, while the buzzy, and surprisingly leafy, ground floor garden is perfect for a daytime hangout with coffee from Long & Short. And don’t miss street artist ROA’s vast reclining mural of a badger on the opposite wall.
As with other parts of E17, this neighbourhood hums with a mighty food and drink repertoire. Fancy a coffee and pastry on the main drag? It has to be bright pink corner joint, Incoming. A sneaky martini? Neighbourhood cocktail bar 56 St James St. Just further along, True Craft pizzeria is a laidback dining room selling top-flight sourdough pizzas (try the Walth-Ham-Stow), yet another terrific addition to E17’s several wood-fired joints of excellence.
A few minutes’ walk south is the unique Pumphouse Museum, housed in and around a Grade II-listed former Victorian wastewater pumping station, telling the industrial history of Walthamstow. Here too you’ll find local gem SupperClub.Tube, one of E17’s finest places to eat – and the UK’s only dine-in tube experience. The train in question is a vintage 1967 Victoria Line carriage in all its glory, with the original TFL moquette seating preserved, and an assortment of tables-for-two clad in white tablecloths. Before every service, head chef Beatriz Maldonado Carreno pops up to enthuse about her passion for Latin American cuisine and introduce her seasonally evolving six-course menu.
Another highlight in these parts is Coppermill Lane, marked by one of street artist ATM’s most striking works – half a dozen birds flying in the direction of Walthamstow Wetlands. Opposite the mural, community hub The Mill is a home-from-home for anyone to drop in, read the papers, view an art exhibition, browse the library or join a local group or activity. On the same side, up by the Wetlands, the dark-wood fronted Coppermill Freehouse is the place for a well-earned drink on the way back from the marshes. Here there are paths to explore by bike or on foot: look out for the blue plaque on the railway arch commemorating Sir Edwin Alliott Verdon Roe, who first flew his all-British triplane over the wetlands.
Back on the lower reaches of famous kilometre-long Walthamstow High Street, home to the second longest outdoor market in Europe, the International Supermarket is a must for essential global groceries. Opposite you’ll find E17’s best tapas bar: Spanish institution Don Francisco y La Luna, whose rustic burgundy interior and pavement terrace overlooks the bustling high street, serves up classics from grilled octopus to gambas.
Also on this straight line up to Walthamstow Central is Japanese restaurant Taro, housed in the iconic Grade II-listed, art deco interior that was formerly Manze’s Pie & Mash shop: its intimate wooden booths are a perfect match for a warming bento box or bowl of ramen.
The daily market itself, lined with multi-cultural cafes and restaurants, bustles with clothes, bags and homewares stalls, while at its heart is The Chequers, which has had roots in Walthamstow as early as 1699 as a courtroom and meeting place: it’s now one of the best pubs in town, with regular sports and drag nights – plus deceptively large beer garden.
